A.D.D. and the Japanese consumer

Japan has a reputation for being a country of savers. In fact, one knock on Japan's economy is that the consumer doesn't exert the kind of muscle that, say, its American counterpart does. In a country that is perceived as being thrifty, conservative and mono-cultural - you'd expect consumer tastes to be fairly stagnant. The reality is that the Japanese consumer has ADD and is incredibly finicky.

There is no better case study than with the Kit Kat. I am a big fan of the Kit Kat. When I was single living in Japan, I would treat myself to a 100 yen ($1) Kit Kat just about every day. That's where the habit began. In the US the Kit Kat comes in one, maybe two or three flavors. In Japan I can't count how many flavors of Kit Kat there are. That's because every month there is a new flavor of Kit Kat that comes out. Over the last year alone I've had chocolate, strawberry, orange, kiwi, caramel pudding, mango, dark chocolate, apple, red bean, and soybean cake. As you can see from the picture, I recently consumed a ginger ale Kit Kat. These flavors don't last long. They in stores for about a month and then a new flavor hits the shelves.

No doubt this is pull marketing at its best. The Japanese consumer is conditioned to act now to try a new flavor or lose out forever. This conditioning has developed a natural belief that new is better...and if it's not new, then it's not worth buying. You see new consumer products all the time in candy, drinks, automobiles...anything. In the soft drink market, over 1,000 new drinks are launched each year into a 7,000 product market. Like the various flavors of Kit Kat, many of these drinks don't last longer than a year.

To garner further buzz, many candies and drinks will incorporate local flavors and be sold only in that locale. So, on our family vacation to Kyushu last month, we saw a flavor of our favorite candy - Haichu (a soft, Starburst-like candy) - which was only sold in Kyushu. The flavor was a locally grown mandarin orange. Not only did we see this at convenience stores, but also at tourist trinket shops wrapped like it was in a cardboard suitcase. Of course, we bought some.

As a consumer, it has its pluses and minuses. You certainly don't get bored as a consumer here in Japan. But you better not get too attached to something you like, because it might be gone in a few weeks/months. As a marketing guy myself, I respect the genius behind the product development strategy. You try to protect your turf by constantly innovating to keep the consumer's interest.

Nevertheless, I'll be honest, this consumer mindset wrecks havoc in my field of employment. The Japanese are notoriously short-term oriented investors. This has frustrated us to no end since we are fairly conservative when it comes to new product launches. It makes for difficult going when investors are looking for something new to invest in every three months.

Multiplying and Replenishing Japan

I can't take credit for finding this article and video done by CNN, but I think it's nevertheless funny and insightful.

With a work culture used to 12 hour days (sometimes more), I find it an interesting sociological tidbit that Canon has to forcibly turn off the lights to get people to leave. When I was working in LA, if you were told by the company that you could leave early, you left early...and oftentimes skipped lunch so you could leave even earlier. Here, leaving early, even when the company tells you that it's OK, is not such an easy task. I mean, I'm surprised that turning off the lights was such an easy fix. Some people in my office would need the power cut, the office tear-gassed, and then to be carried away by commandos before they would leave.

Then there's the whole "big brother" aspect of your company telling you to go forth and procreate. It just takes the whole romance out of it when "it" becomes your civic and corporate duty, right?

But I have to hand it to Canon, with work hours as they are, at least they resisted the urge to take a page out of the US prison system by going the conjugal visit route!

It's time for some sumo

Shelley and I recently attended the year's first Grand Sumo Tournament here in Tokyo. I'm sure you caught highlights on SportsCenter, right? On the surface, sumo wrestling looks like a bunch of fat Asian guys in ornate g-strings pushing and slapping each other inside a ring. But it's so much more than that.

Sumo wrestling has deep roots in the Shinto religion, and started literally as a symbolic wrestling match against the kami, or local God of the shrine. Today, every aspect of the sport is embedded in the Shinto religion from the construction of a shinto temple roof over the ring, to the coordinated rituals that are done before and after matches. One interesting one is done by the Grand Champion(s) (called the yokozuna) who enters the ring, and purifies it by driving away evil spirits by doing the big leg stomp. Certainly a site to behold...on a number of levels that I don't think I need to go into.

Sumo wrestling is going through an interesting time. Because while it is quintessentially Japanese, it is being more and more dominated by foreign wrestlers from Polynesia, Mongolia and Eastern Europe. Four of the last six grand champions were foreign born and the many of the top wrestlers are foreigners. How do officials of this very traditional Japanese sport deal with it? They place limitations on the number of foreigners that can participate, of course. But that's beside the point.

The point is, seeing it live is awesome. I'd seen it on TV a number of times, but you don't get a feel for how strong these guys are, and how much real technique there is. While the guiding principles of the sport underscore a need for little emotion, seeing it live you pick up on intense competition and bitter rivalries that percolate underneath the surface. Plus, as one of my friends put it, it's a great opportunity to remind your wife that she should be glad us husbands don't look like that.

We enjoyed ourselves so much so that we're hoping to head back in May when the tournament comes back to Tokyo. Anyone care to join us?

Click on the pictures above to see a small gallery of photos taken from our nose bleed seats. There is also the video below that we shot of a few rituals and matches. Be careful, they contain images of large, scantily clad Asian, Polynesian and Eastern European men pushing each other around. Best not seen within 30 minutes of eating.

Shichi-Go-San

Sometime in mid-November marks the shichi-go-san (7-5-3) festival, or rite of passage, for Japanese children. Girls aged 7 & 3, and boys aged 5 dress up in formal attire, usually kimono, and come to their local shinto shrine to be blessed, by the priest, for a long and healthy life and to drive away evil spirits. This ritual has been around in some form or another for at least 1,000 years.

The family made our way to Meiji Shrine to see all the little kids dressed up and to take some pictures. Plenty of foreigners like us were playing paparazzi and stopping people to take pictures. Whenever I see kids dressed up in kimono like this, I can't help but think they're tiny adults, not kids. They look so grown up. The funny thing is whenever Japanese see western kids dressed in formal wear, like a suit, they think the same thing of us.

Blind runners

Japan is a nation of runners. If you're up early and head to Yoyogi Park, one of the major parks in Tokyo, the pathways will be filled with runners getting in their morning exercise before work.

On the weekends you'll see a large group of blind runners descend upon the park and take to the paths. There usually is a large collection of seeing eye dogs lounging together as their owners get their exercise. These runners partner with someone who can see and run in rhythm thanks to a tether that both runners hold. This not only guides the runner down a safe path, but ensures both runners maintain the same pace.

I've been critical of what I sense as being a lack of charitable spirit in Tokyo. But this is a great example of a grassroots effort to meet the needs of a small population in need. What a selfless and efficient way to help someone with a disability to more fully enjoy his or her life, while at the same getting exercise you would probably get anyway.

To that end, Shelley and I are in the midst of looking for a cause or organization to get involved with - something that we could do as a family. For my Tokyo readers/friends - any ideas, suggestions, recommendations?

It's Matsuri Time

We recently celebrated the fall festival, or matsuri, in our neighborhood. This festival, and many others, are an interesting expression of ancient agrarian Japanese culture rooted in the planting and harvesting of rice. Not unlike most religions and cults, the rice is harvested and sacrificed/offered to the God of the field (or perhaps shrine), so as to ensure continued prosperity. This matsuri, celebrated on the autumnal equinox, has evolved into its modern and urban equivalent - neighborhood leaders and businesses sponsoring rituals for the continued prosperity of their businesses and neighborhood.

Each neighborhood sponsors a mikoshi, which looks like an arc from the Old Testament, and houses the Kami (God-like spirit of Shinto religion) of the neighborhood. Men and women get wildly inebriated and carry this mikoshi around the neighborhood, chanting and drinking along the way, for the prosperity, health and well being of those in the neighborhood. The day’s events culminate in a large gathering of people at the Shinto shrine where there are booths set up for games and food. People will then pay their respects to the Kami (God) of the shrine and make offerings, usually of money.

Shelley grew up in Indiana, in a town very much tied to agriculture, and they too had a huge fall festival to, I presume, celebrate the harvest. While the fall festival in Shelley's home town boasts culinary delights such as deep fried twinkies, frog legs and alligator jerky, the festival food in Japan is not far behind -- chicken skewers, fried chicken, breaded balls of octopus, fire roasted whole fish, Japanese style pancakes, candy, shave ice and chocolate dipped bananas. There are lots of games too, including a game to catch goldfish. Anthon came home with four. A week later we had killed them all. One jumped out of the bowl and dried out over night - we've ruled it suicide. The other three, who were named Nemo, Nemo’s Father and Dori have all gone to “heavenly father” as Anthon put it. I think we starved two of them. The last one may have starved but seemed a bit too stupid to eat. He kept getting close to the fish food, but couldn’t ever get it in his mouth. Anthon, ever the optimist, has asked to go back to the festival for more fish. Shelley may need some convincing.

In the morning there was a child’s mikoshi and drum procession - each child was invited to participate. Run by older community leaders, it was a nice way to transmit important parts of the Japanese culture and history in a fun way to children. We thought Anthon would enjoy it…we thought wrong. We couldn’t get him out of the stroller. He rebounded and at least took some pictures in his matsuri get-up.

Festivals are a great time. Even though Japanese modern society has evolved from its agrarian roots, people still celebrate the spirit of the festival - being grateful for their well being, health, etc.

I’ve uploaded some pictures (as seen above) and a short video of our day (as seen below).

When in Japan, work as the Japanese

The Japanese language can be a psychologically humbling language - and not for the obvious reason of it being a difficult language to learn. There is a forced humility in the certain words and phrases that one uses.

Case in point, I leave for home each day around 7:30 PM. As I pack up and walk towards the door, I say, "saki ni shitsurei-shimasu" or translated literally, "please excuse my rudeness for leaving before you." Everyone that is still there replies, "o-tsukaresama deshita" or "you were a hard worker." It's not as awkward as it sounds, it's just a cultural norm replaces saying goodbye or goodnight.

But the fact that they don't simply say goodbye and goodnight in and of itself is telling. Japan as a society values working late, which value has been ingrained into millions of workers. It's not just about getting work done, but it's also about 'doing the time.'

And while I'm of the first to get to work, there aren't any accolades that come to those who come early...just those who stay late it seems. Only the last one home avoids having to apologze for leaving before the others.

I tried to work my hours, early in - early out, but when I would leave for the night the cynic in me hears a more sarcastic reply of coworkers who are stuck having to work, and in their minds are saying "o-tsukaresama deshita...NOT!" Because of that vibe that may or may not be there I changed slightly my hours - not working any more or less, but being there later. We'll see how it goes.

Our Neighbors, the Harajuku Girls

Harajuku is quite a site and probably one of the most interesting places in all of Tokyo. On Sunday afternoons, girls (mostly) dress up in a variety of goth / lolita / anime-inspired costumes and hang out. In a country that's well known for their homogeneity, these Harajuku girls stand out as the antithesis to Japan's group-orienetd culture. You have girls dressed like gothic versions of clowns, little-bo-peep, little house on the praire, and adorn themselves with spiked piercings, tons of white make-up, massive hair, freaky-colored contact lenses, etc.

Certainly these girls come to be looked at. They come to hang out with their friends. Some are there as part of the "free hug club" and freely want their pictures to be taken. The more hardcore set, oddly enough, can be hostile to having their pictures taken. While they themselves won't stop you from taking pictures, they either turn away from you, decline a picture request, or have one of their old-guy fans (also a photographer) tell you that you can't take their picture. Let's see...public place, girls dressed to shock and get attention. Gee, sounds like people who don't want their picture taken! Though it's not made explicit, my Dad thinks that perhaps a few yen will increase their cooperativeness. Though admittedly, no one likes a gothic sell out. So I choose to grab a zoom lens and shoot from a distance. Click on any of the pictures to see the gallery.

This was actually my second time to Harajuku to see the 'locals'. The first time was when Shelley came to visit me in 2004 when I was here on an extended business trip. She arrived on a Saturday and I took her here on a Sunday - all jet lagged and tired. To say she was freaked out would be modest. Admittedly, it was probably a tactical mistake on my part to take her here so soon. We now live two stops on the subway from Harajuku, or about a 25 minute walk. Upon hearing that we were that close, Shelley told me, "I don't know if I want those girls to be our neighbors." She's coming around though. I don't know about you, but I think Shelley's search for a Halloween costume is over.

There will be more pictures to come. I'm certainly going back with Anthon to not only gauge his reaction, but to also see if he can't interact with some of them. Should be some classic moments.

Sakura Thoughts

I saw that Shelley posted a few thoughts on Sakura here, and here.

This is probably the single best time to be in Japan, and while it is hard to plan to time a visit to see the cherry blossoms at their peak, it's well worth a trip. I think in many ways Japanese view cherry blossoms as a metaphor for life - in that it's delicate and fleeting yet inherently beautiful and should be celebrated.

On the flip side, sakura were used as a symbol in World War II to signify those young Kamikaze pilots who were flew suicide missions and never came back, essentially giving up their lives in their youth. In the same way, according to our friend and neighbor Walt, sakura symbolize the Japanese warrior, including the samurai, who are honored while dying in their youth in battle.

Despite the heavy symbolism, sakura season is a great excuse for the Japanese to party. As Shelley put it so eloquently, it's as if it's one big tailgate! And it's true. Walking through Ueno Park one night we saw thousands, literally, of people sitting on tarps on the ground, with their shoes off, underneath (mostly) the sakura trees, drinking heavily and eating. I would guess that these spots had been staked out for hours. Everyone seemed to be happy, even the homeless people in the park were happy collecting all the recyclable cans and bottles...it was payday for them. The daytimes were even more croweded families, friends and coworkers gathered to have "hanami parties" (flower viewing parties). Shelley remarked that it was one of the first times to see the Japanese cut loose like this and it was good for her to see that, I think. Seeing people get so excited about sakura showed a very human side to our adopted country.

And finally, we went to a park called Shinjuku Gyoen Park to get one last view of the sakura before the rains came and wiped all of the beautiful blossoms away. We happened upon a grove of trees that had shed half of its blossoms - which effectively covered the ground with what seemed like millions of white and pink petals. It was like snow, so peaceful and serene. The wind was blowing gently so you could pick up the blossoms and toss them in the air and they would float away. Anthon particularly liked that, though he would do more throwing at or mashing into people. Or he liked to try to eat the blossoms.

So if you have any desires to come visit us during the sakura season, it's normally the last week of March and the first week of April. Click on the links below to see pictures from our various sakura outings. Just be aware that pictures do not do this justice...sakura season is something to experience.

Showa Park, Ueno Park at night, Imperial Palace Moat, Shinjuku Gyoen Park

Masks

During the winter and early spring months in Japan it is common to see people walking around wearing what appear to be white surgical masks. These are worn for a variety of reasons, most notably by those who are either sick and don't want to infect others or those who aren't sick and don't want to be infected by those who are. No matter how stupid they make people look you find people all around town wearing these - from old guys to rather fashionable young women...at work, on the trains, walking around...everywhere.

To me wearing these masks is a very important statement about Japanese culture.
I really respect a culture where people by and large consider the feelings of others when they make a decision or a deliberate act. Certainly putting the group first over the individual has its downsides, but I think living in a city of 20 million people you have to make certain sacrifices just to get along in such cramped quarters.


There is speculation, however, that this is all one bizarre show of solidarity by millions of adoring fans of the one, the only, King of Pop. Certainly Michael Jackson has his legions of fans here in Japan. Or, could this be some trendy new fashion statement that could be sweeping the States come next fall? I hear gauze-padded surgical masks are the next fashion accessory to replace hand held Yorkies and Chihuahuas.

In the end, despite my desire to be Japanese, I can't quite get myself to don one of these masks in public. I think being a foreigner exempts me from a lot of societal norms - this being one of them. So much for my being considerate of others, my support for Michael Jackson or my keen, forward-looking fashion sense.